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Canvas Tent Shop
Castelgar, BC, Canada
1-800-234-1150

WOOD CAMP STOVES & WOOD CAMP STOVE

WILDERNESS STOVE

Rich Tuck, owner of the Wall Tent Shop, designed this unique wilderness stove. Watch Rich asssemble the stove and explain the wilderness stove special features.



Move mouse over the image to enlarge.

STANDARD PACKAGE WOOD CAMP STOVE :

STOVE

NESTING PIPE

DAMPER

SHELF

RAIN CAP/ SPARK ARRESTOR

DELUXE PACKAGE: STANDARD PACKAGE PLUS

GRATE

3 GALLON STAINLESS STEEL WATER TANK

  • Quality outfitter stove at a reasonable price.
  • 12 gauge steel used for body and 10 gauge steel used for top.
  • GASKET ON DOOR MAKES THE WILDERNESS WOOD CAMP STOVE AIRTIGHT AND VERY EFFICIENT

WILDERNESS 5 IS THE LONGEST BURNING WOOD CAMP STOVE AVAILABLE. THE FIREBOX IS VERY LARGE !

  • Welded heavy-gauge hot rolled steel construction.
  • 1" grid/braces underneath stove top to insure stove top does not warp.
  • Reinforcement bars welded to both sides and back to prevent warping this quality wood camp stove.
  • Strong - quality welds to insure airtight design.
  • Wilderness wood campstove will provide many years of service.
  • Rain cap with spark arrestor. Prevents rain and snow going into stove pipe. Much better than wire mesh spark arrestors on a normal wood camp stoves.
  • Large adjustable air intake on door allows a hotter fire when needed on cold night.
  • Legs are heavy round pipe with threads that screw into stove which helps level stove.
  • All stove accessories fit inside firebox except.
  • 5" nesting stove pipe, 7' 8" long - smallest piece fits into next larger size, end of pipe is 6".
  • Stove pipe is long enough to have pipe about 1 foot above tent ridge to allow wind to blow sparks away from your tent. Most other outfitter stoves only have 77" length of stove pipe.
  • A 5" standard oval stove jack will accommodate Wilderness Wood Camp Stoves 5" nesting stove pipe.
  • Nesting stove pipe with welded seam, eliminates smoke leakage. Stove pipe is 6" at top, 5" at stove.
  • Warming trays - 25"Lx 8"w, which can fit on either side of outfitter stoves.
  • Stainless steel 3 gallon water tank - can fit on either side of wood camp stove.
  • Legs are 18" long. Which makes the stove top 6" higher than other wood camp stoves. Easier to cook on and easier to add wood.
  • Stove pipe opening is recessed to make packing in on horses easier.
  • GRATE is available in the deluxe package. Grate is designed for outfitter stove when burning coal. Grate can also be used for burning wood as grate allows more air at the bottom of the wood creating a hotter fire.
  • Air intake on door has a metal baffle behind it to prevent sparks from popping out the air intake holes.
  • *****************************************************************************************************************************

IF YOU HAVE A STOVE JACK OPENING ON SIDEWALL OR BACK WALL - YOU WILL NEED 5" STRAIGHT PIPE AND 2 ELBOWS. STRAIGHT PIPE EXCHANGE AND 2 ELBOWS AVAILABLE FOR $55 to replace nesting pipe. If you want both the nesting pipe and straight pipe $75

NOTE: NO 6"RAIN CAP/SPARK ARRESTOR INCLUDED. A 6" RAIN CAP SPARK ARRESTOR THAT IS PART OF THE STOVE PACKAGE WILL NOT FIT 5" STRAIGHT PIPE. A 5" RAIN CAP SPARK ARRESTOR IS AVAILABLE FOR$ 50.

****************************************************************************************************************************************

  • I USE THIS STOVE. FOR THE MONEY AND QUALITY - THERE IS NO TENT STOVE ON THE MARKET THAT CAN COMPARE TO THIS QUALITY WOOD CAMP STOVE.

RECOMMENDATION:

  1. We designed the Wilderness Wood Camp Stove and it is a quality stove.
  2. The The Wilderness 4 stove is 36% larger than the Wilderness 3 model and only costs $70 more. The Wilderness 4 canvas tent stove will provide significantly more heat and will hold heat much longer than the Wilderness 3. If you are unsure of which wall tent stove to purchase or like longer burning and more heating capability - the Wilderness III is recommended. The Wilderness 5 will burn all night with quality dry hard wood.

WILDERNESS WOOD CAMP STOVE CHARACTERISTICS

Wilderness 4 stove box is 2.95 cubic feet, "18 % LARGER " than an Outfitter stove with only 2.5 cubic feet.

Wilderness 5 stove box is 3.85 cubic feet, "55 % LARGER " than an Outfitter stove with only 2.5 cubic feet.

Outfitter stove does not have a door gasket, therefore it is not airtight and not as efficient as a Yukon, Wilderness or 4 Dog stove which have door gaskets.

Stove burn times are dependent on the size of the firebox. Outfitter stove burn time is much less, due to its small 2.5 cubic feet fire box, compared to a Wilderness 4 or 5 stove.

5" Stove Pipe WILDERNESS 3 WILDERNESS 4  WILDERNESS 5

0 DEGREES

Tent heating capability

14 x 16 16 x 20 18 x 24

-30 DEGREES

Tent heating capability

10 x 12 14 x 16 16 x 20
Dimensions 26 L x 12 w x 12 h 26 L x 14 w x 14 h 26 L x 16 w x 16 h

SIZE OF FIREBOX

2.17 CUBIC FEET

2.95 CUBIC FEET

36% LARGER THAN WILDERNESS 3

3.85 CUBIC FEET

31% LARGER THAN WILDERNESS 4

Burn time 6 - 8 hours 8 - 10 hours 10 -12 hours
Weight 56 lbs 64 lbs 72 lbs
Height with Legs 30" 32" 34"

STANDARD PACKAGE

stove, pipe, rain cap/spark arrestor,damper, shelf

$445
$485
$575

DELUXE PACKAGE

Water tank, Grate

stove, pipe, rain cap/spark arrestor,damper

 

$555 $595 $685

RECOMMENDATION: Do not place a stove on any flammable surface.
A fire proof 3' x 4' mat is available for $45.

Photo-Click to enlarge
Item
  Price
FIREPROOF MAT FOR
UNDER STOVE
3' X 4'
FREE SHIPPING
WHEN ORDERED WITH WILDERNESS TENT OR WILDERNESS OR YUKON STOVE
$45

HEAT SHIELD

PROTECTS SIDE WALL FROM HIGH HEAT

FREE SHIPPING
WHEN ORDERED WITH WILDERNESS TENT OR WILDERNESS OR YUKON STOVE
$45
 

 

 

$45

 

36 " COAT RACK

with 2 clamps to attach to frame

Great for hanging coats and other clothes.

Each person in tent should have coat hangar above his cot.Tent is less cluttered.

 

Attaches to eave frame poles.

FREE SHIPPING WHEN ORDERED WITH A 12X14 OR LARGER WILDERNESS TENT.

$40
WILDERNESS & YUKON STOVE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

SAFETY/ SMOKE ISSUES: ALL SPARK ARRESTORS WILL BECOME CLOGGED WITH ASH AND SOOT. REMEMBER TO CHECK YOUR SPARK ARRESTOR DAILY AND CLEAN SPARK ARRESTOR AS REQUIRED. USING SOFT WOOD AND LOWER TEMPERATURE STOVE BURNS WILL CAUSE THE SPARK ARRESTOR TO BE CLOGGED SOONER. A CLOGGED SPARK ARRESTOR WILL CAUSE SMOKE TO ESCAPE FROM THE STOVE DOOR INTAKE AND WHEN OPENING DOOR. AND IN EXTREME CASES, A STOVE PIPE FIRE.

DAMPER: DAMPER MUST BE IN TOTALLY OPEN POSITION WHEN OPENING THE STOVE DOOR OR SMOKE WILL COME OUT THE STOVE DOOR. FOR DAMPER INSTALLATION VIEW WILDERNESS STOVE VIDEO.

STOVE ASSEMBLY

LEGS: Thread legs into leg inserts (bottom of stove). Hand tighten. Place stove in desired location and level before burning. To level, push legs into ground. Do not place objects under legs to shim stove up. This can make the stove unstable. Lubricate leg threads at least once a year (spray on lubricants work best)

STOVE PIPE: The stove pipe design allows all five sections of pipe to nest inside each other for ease of packing. Each pipe section is tapered, graduating from 5"(pipe section #1) to slightly larger each section. To assemble, stand pipe upright with crimped end down. Remove the #1 section of pipe (smallest) from inside set. Place crimped end inside stove ring (or elbow if needed). Pull pipe #2 out and insert crimped end into top of pipe section #1. Repeat process until all five pipe joints are assembled (may only need to use 4 if going out sidewall) It is recommended that you support your pipe (if going out the sidewall). Windy conditions can cause the pipe to work itself out. A sheet metal screw in each pipe section can help prevent the pipe from pulling apart.

T-CAP: We recommend the use of a T-cap with spark arrestor at all times. The spark arrester keeps large pieces of soot and ash from coming out of the end of the pipe. The T-cap top will keep wind from blowing down the pipe and puffing smoke into your tent (T section of cap should be turned in opposite direction of the wind so it can not blow directly into pipe). The T-cap with spark arrestor is placed in the end of the last section of pipe (mesh screen goes into pipe, T section rests on top of pipe). If the T-cap is too loose inside the pipe, gently pull and stretch mesh portion. T-cap with spark arrestor will eventually get plugged. T-cap must be removed from end of pipe periodically (use protective leather gloves) and tapped on hard surface to prevent/remove creosote build up. If t-Cap gets plugged, the stove will not draw properly.

WATER TANK: The stainless water tank is designed to hang on either side of stove. Set tank down over the flat flange integrated onto either side of stove. Water faucet is transported assembled inside the water tank (to prevent damage in shipment). Before use, remove faucet from inside of tank and place on the outside. Make sure the supplied O-ring is placed inside of the tank. Tighten by hand only. IMPORTANT - water must be kept in tank at all times when tank is attached to the stove. If allowed to run dry, you run the risk of destroying the faucet and/or warping the tank. We recommend removing the water tank at night during sleeping hours. Use protective leather gloves to handle the hot tank. Water will get VERY hot, so please be careful. Wash tank thoroughly before using. SIDE TRAY: The side tray may be mounted on either side or both sides of the stove. Trays mount by inserting pins into holes on top edge of stove.

CURING
Burn the stove thoroughly outside of your tent for the first time. The galvanized pipe and elbow and the painted surfaces of the stove will smoke slightly and give off a nasty odor during the first burn. We recommend setting up the stove in your back yard and fully burning it before use in the field. Burn at one-half to three-quarter damper. Once the fire is going, close the door and try not to touch it for at least two hours. The stove paint needs to cure (the paint is very susceptible before & during curing). If you must initiate first burn in your tent, simply open all doors and windows for at least two hours during the first time.

USE
The burn times and BTU outputs were derived from using dry Tamarack wood during burn test. Any variety of wood may be used for fuel in the stove. Different types of wood will more than likely give you different burn times and heat outputs. Keep in mind that dry wood times burns much more efficiently than green wood. Green wood will create more creosote in the pipe and spark arrestor and will put off less heat than cured firewood. Creosote will also build up when stove is burned at a low damper setting for long periods of time. Try to burn on a medium to high setting one or two times a day to burn and creosote build up in the pipe. DO NOT ALLOW STOVE TO BURN SO HOT IT TURNS RED!!

T-cap with spark arrestor must be removed from end of pipe (use protective leather gloves) and tapped on a hard surface to prevent/remove creosote build up. If T-cap gets plugged, the stove will not draw properly. Always crack the door slightly for a few seconds to allow the stove additional draw before fully opening door. The stove can build up large amounts of smoke inside and needs the extra draw to pull it out the pipe. You can build a fire directly on the floor of the stove without fear of burning through, however, the stove will perform best with a bed of dirt/ash in it.

When starting a fire, use small pieces of dry kindling and crack door open until fire gets going well(this is very important). Once fire is going, YOU MUST close the door. Place damper in full open position until stove gets up to temperature (then damper as desired). Keeping the door open for too long can cause damage to the stove. Only open it enough to get the fire going. For the most heat: use smaller pieces of split wood with damper fully open.
For longer burn times: Use large pieces of wood with damper 1/8 to ¼ open (best at night)

SAFETY: ALL SPARK ARRESTORS WILL BECOME CLOGGED WITH ASH AND SOOT. REMEMBER TO CHECK YOUR SPARK ARRESTOR DAILY AND CLEAN SPARK ARRESTOR AS REQUIRED. USING SOFT WOOD AND LOWER TEMPERATURE STOVE BURNS WILL CAUSE THE SPARK ARRESTOR TO BE CLOGGED SOONER. A CLOGGED SPARK ARRESTOR WILL CAUSE SMOKE TO ESCAPE FROM THE STOVE DOOR INTAKE AND IN EXTREME CASES, A STOVE PIPE FIRE.


Main Factors In Selecting A Wood Camp Stove

  1. Tent stove heating capacity
  2. Cost
  3. Weight
  4. Deciding on galvanized, titanium or steel construction
  5. Size
  6. Options and standard features available on a wall tent stove

Click Wood Camp Stove for pictures and info on the 35 wood camp stoves and outfitter stoves by Cylinder Stoves, Four Dog Stove, Kni-Co Stove, Kwik Kamp Stove, Riley Stove, Mountaineer Stove, Titanium Stove, Sims Stove and Idaho Stove. We have a wood camp stove or outfitter stove that will meet your budget and requirement. Tent stove and pack stove prices start at $105.00.

CAMP WOOD STOVE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

LEGS: Thread legs into leg inserts (bottom of stove). Hand tighten. Place outfitter stove in desired location and level before burning. To level, push legs into ground. Do not place objects under legs to shim stove up. This can make the stove unstable. Lubricate leg threads at least once a year (spray on lubricants work best)

STOVE PIPE: The stove pipe design allows all five sections of pipe to nest inside each other for ease of packing. Each pipe section is tapered, graduating from 5"(pipe section #1) to slightly larger each section. To assemble, stand pipe upright with crimped end down. Remove the #1 section of pipe (smallest) from inside set. Place crimped end inside stove ring (or elbow if needed). Pull pipe #2 out and insert crimped end into top of pipe section #1. Repeat process until all four pipe joints are assembled. It is recommended that you support your pipe if going out the sidewall. Windy conditions can cause the pipe to work itself out. A sheet metal screw in each section can help prevent the pipe from pulling apart.

T-CAP: We recommend the use of a T-cap with spark arrestor at all times. The spark arrester keeps large pieces of soot and ash from coming out of the end of the pipe. The T-cap top will keep wind from blowing down the pipe and puffing smoke into your tent (T section of cap should be turned in opposite direction of the wind so it can not blow directly into pipe). The T-cap with spark arrestor is placed in the end of the last section of pipe, T section rests on top of pipe. If the T-cap is too loose inside the pipe, gently pull and stretch mesh portion. T-cap with spark arrestor will eventually get plugged. T-cap must be removed from end of pipe periodically (use protective leather gloves) and tapped on hard surface to prevent/remove creosote build up. If t-Cap gets plugged, the stove will not draw properly.

WATER TANK: The stainless water tank is designed to hang on either side of stove. Set tank down over the flat flange integrated onto either side of stove. Water faucet is transported assembled inside the water tank (to prevent damage in shipment). Before use, remove faucet from inside of tank and place on the outside. Make sure the supplied O-ring is placed inside of the tank. Tighten by hand only. IMPORTANT - water must be kept in tank at all times when tank is attached to the stove. If allowed to run dry, you run the risk of destroying the faucet and/or warping the tank. We recommend removing the water tank at night during sleeping hours. Use protective leather gloves to handle the hot tank. Water will get VERY hot, so please be careful. Wash tank thoroughly before using.

SIDE TRAY: The side tray may be mounted on either side or both sides of the stove. Trays mount by inserting pins into holes on top edge of stove.

CURING
Burn the stove thoroughly outside of your tent for the first time. The galvanized pipe and elbow and the painted surfaces of the stove will smoke slightly and give off a nasty odor during the first burn. We recommend setting up the stove in your back yard and fully burning it before use in the field. Burn at one-half to three-quarter damper. Once the fire is going, close the door and try not to touch it for at least two hours. The stove paint needs to cure (the paint is very susceptible before & during curing). If you must initiate first burn in your tent, simply open all doors and windows for at least two hours during the first time.

USE
The burn times were derived from using dry Tamarack wood during burn test. Any variety of wood may be used for fuel in the stove. Different types of wood will more than likely give you different burn times and heat outputs. Keep in mind that dry wood times burns much more efficiently than green wood.

Green wood will create more creosote in the pipe and spark arrestor and will put off less heat than cured firewood. Creosote will also build up when stove is burned at a low damper setting for long periods of time. Try to burn on a medium or high setting one or two times a day to burn and creosote build up in the pipe.

DO NOT ALLOW STOVE TO BURN SO HOT IT TURNS RED!! T-cap with spark arrestor must be removed from end of pipe (use protective leather gloves) and tapped on a hard surface to prevent/remove creosote build up. If T-cap gets plugged, the stove will not draw properly.

Always crack the door slightly for a few seconds to allow the stove additional draw before fully opening door. The stove can build up large amounts of smoke inside and needs the extra draw to pull it out the pipe. You can build a fire directly on the floor of the stove without fear of burning through, however, the stove will perform best with a bed of dirt/ash in it.

When starting a fire, use small pieces of dry kindling and crack door open until fire gets going well(this is very important). Once fire is going, YOU MUST close the door. Place damper in full open position until stove gets up to temperature (then damper as desired). Keeping the door open for too long can cause damage to the stove. Only open it enough to get the fire going. For the most heat: use smaller pieces of split wood with damper fully open.
For longer burn times: Use large pieces of wood with damper 1/8 to ¼ open (best at night)

Discussion of Camp Wood Stove Features

General: All my camp wood stoves have been used for many years and have proven their reliability. I have listed each stove's features thoroughly so you can compare and decide which stove meets your requirements and budget.

Cost: A camp wood stove with the same gauge of metal (thickness) should be very close in price. When comparing outfitter stove costs - ensure you add the cost of options you want as prices for shelves, water tanks and pipes vary significantly between stove companies.

Rolled Steel, Galvanized, Titanium Stoves:

  1. Galvanized - Galvanization helps prevent rust. A wise choice when buying a lightweight stove.
  2. Titanium - More resistant to burn through and warping. Stronger than steel and weighs about 50% less.
  3. Rolled Steel - Non galvanized and will rust quickly if left outside.

Tent Heating Capacity: Most tent stove manufacturers state the very largest tent the stove will heat. You should consider the next larger stove model to ensure you have a warm tent especially for drying out wet clothes and boots if you plan on using a stove in the cold winter months.

Collapsible Stoves vs Non-Collapsible: Stove that collapses for compactness . Unless space is a critical factor, a non-collapsible stove is recommended.

Pellet Stoves: Stoves that burns pellets. Used in environments where wood is unavailable. Some models of pellet stoves burn pellets or wood.

Double Wall Stove: Riley stoves are the only lightweight tent stove company that have both a double bottom and double wall. (Colt models and larger) Riley stoves makes a high quality lightweight stove because the double bottom reduces the chance of a bottom burn out. Riley double wall tent stoves makes for a durable and heat efficient outdoor wood stove.

Weight: Stoves that heat a 12'x14' tent can weigh 30-40 pounds. If you need a stove at a base camp or tent camping near a road buy the stove you need regardless of size or weight.

Packing: Packing smaller stoves fit into panniers easily or as a top pack. Larger stoves can also be easily fit into larger panniers.

Features and Options: Most tent stoves have the same options and features. However, some of the smaller stoves do not have a water tank or shelf that fits into the firebox due to the stove's size.

Storing and Transporting: I prefer a stove that all the accessories fit inside of the firebox for ease of transporting and storing.

Stove Metal Thickness:

  1. Gauge - The lower the gauge number, the thicker the rolled steel or galvanized steel. Thicker metal increases strength, durability and weight.
  2. Metal Thickness - common gauge thickness used in tent stove construction:
    1. 10 gauge .135 inches
    2. 12 gauge .105 inches
    3. 14 gauge .074 inches
    4. 18 gauge .05 inches
    5. 22 gauge .03 inches
    6. 24 gauge .024 inches

LIGHTWEIGHT STOVES TO PACK IN:

  1. Individuals packing in normally take a lightweight stove. However, some individuals take a heavier stove and "cache" it if they use the same hunting camp every year.
  2. Collapsible stoves fold down on themselves and are occasionally used by packers. Only about one half of the stove space on a pack horse is saved because the stove pipe and any other accessories must also be packed in. Stove pipe and accessories normally fit inside the firebox of a normal stove. The biggest drawback of a collapsible stove is that the firebox is not airtight.
  3. Lightweight stoves primary drawback is the thin metal bottom will burn through much faster than the heavier metal camp wood stoves. I recommend you put one inch of dirt inside the firebox to reduce the heat on the bottom of the stove firebox. The two most common lightweight stoves used for packing in are the Riley Stoves and Kni-Co stoves. The larger Riley stoves, Colt and larger, have double walls and double stove bottoms and are very durable. However, the Riley stove is much more expensive than the Kni-Co single wall and bottom stoves.
  4. A damper for your outfitter stove is strongly recommend. I hunt in Wilderness areas and all wood has to be cut by hand. A damper makes your stove 10-15% more efficient. Which means you will reduce the amount of wood you have to cut by 10-15% if you use a damper. This 10-15% increased stove efficiency is very important when you cut wood by hand.

 

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